Science and Technology
publicado em 24/01/2012 às 15h52:00
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Researchers develop sunscreen that fights wrinkles and sagging

Project funded by FAPESP created a formula that stimulates cell renewal and protects against ultraviolet radiation

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Team of researchers at the University of São Paulo at Ribeirão Preto developed a sunscreen that also protects against the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, improves texture and elasticity of the skin, stimulates cell renewal, moisturizes and reduces wrinkles. The project was funded by FAPESP.

The formula combines two types of photoprotective substances to plant extracts of Ginkgo biloba and red seaweeds. Also added vitamins A, C and E. According to the pharmaceutical and research coordinator, Patricia Campos Maia, previous research had confirmed that some plant extracts were able to improve the conditions of photoaged skin and make it less vulnerable to radiation damage. Then came the idea of ​​associating these statements sun filters, to enhance the protective effect

The vitamins were added to stimulate cell renewal and improve the general conditions of the skin, thus developing a multi-purpose cream, the drugmaker said.

<b> Step by step the search <b>

The first step was to develop a formulation with photostable filters, ie, able to remain active in the presence of light, with a sun protection factor (SPF) 20. Filters were combined for this chemical (organic), composed of molecules capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and transform them into low-energy rays harmless to the skin, and physical filters (inorganic), which reflect radiation and prevent its penetration.

Then added plant extracts and vitamins. We tested various combinations of ingredients. The challenge was to create a product with sensory characteristics appropriate, because if you make a cream that not too greasy or spreads, nobody uses it, she said.

In partnership with the French laboratory Evica, the skin compatibility of the product was evaluated and its safety has been attested for cosmetic use. Thanks to the presence of plant extracts, the skin of volunteers was free of damage on the high summer and winter and also in conditions of extreme temperature change.

In parallel, we evaluated the influence of the cream in tactile perception, a characteristic that is impaired in aged skin. The formulation improved hydration and skin barrier function, ie decreased water loss in the superficial layer. This resulted in an improvement in tactile perception, because it brought back the conditions of a healthy skin, he said.

According to Campos, the formula is ready to be marketed, but there have been no contacts with companies in the industry accordingly. Part of the research was published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology.

DNA <b> Protection </ b>

Tests on mice showed that the product developed at USP in Ribeirão Preto, reduced the presence of p53 and caspase-3, genetic markers that indicate cell damage caused by radiation. There was also less production of metalloproteinase enzyme that destroys collagen and leaves your skin sagging, said Patricia.

In a second step done with human volunteers, we evaluated the action of the cream in real time, using biophysical techniques and image of the skin. It was also used a technique called reflectance confocal microscopy laser, which allows you to see the changes without the use of cell biopsies. It was possible to observe a deep hydration and improved skin appearance lasting about 8 hours. Also significantly improved barrier function and skin texture, he said.

At all stages, we tested not only the complete formulation, but also versions that contained only one filter and the active ingredients in the study. The combination of filters with red marine algae was the most reduced the presence of p53 and caspase-3, ie, the one that prevented cell damage. Since the combination with Ginkgo biloba, was the most protected the skin barrier function.

According to the researcher, the formulation was the most complete hydrates and protects the skin's barrier function, improving appearance and reducing wrinkles and roughness. But she warns that the product is to be used on a daily basis and not when the exposure to the sun is intense at the beach or pool.

Confira o estudo completo, intitulado "Desenvolvimento, estabilidade e eficácia pré-clínica e clínica de formulações fotoprotetoras contendo vitaminas lipossolúveis e extratos de Ginkgo biloba e algas marinhas vermelhas". Confira o estudo completo, intit

Source: FAPESP
   Palavras-chave:   USP    FAPESP    Sunscreen    Cell renewal    Skin    Ultraviolet radiation    Research    Multifunctional cream   
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